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Free Energy Already EXISTS! It is simply suppressed…

Re: Weigh In: America’s Oil Dependence as per
To Bill Squadron,

Gary Vesperman asked me to add my comment to your energy policy presentation.

I’m very surprised that Gary Vesperman, of all people, hasn’t addressed the elephant in the room.

He is one of the few people I know that has been gathering evidence about the suppression of energy innovation in America specifically and around the world generally.

I did not see anything in the discussions or comments that actually addresses the REAL problem…

Capitalistic Politics (aka Vested Interest Control).

It is a FACT that there are many practical technologies already proven and existing that could solve our energy problems in a very short time, at minimal cost.  It’d also put a LOT of people to work.
This includes both interim technologies (to assist phase-over) and long term eco-compatible technologies.

We could be 100% energy independent for a fraction of the military cost of ‘maintaining’ present fossil fuel policy and infrastructure.  We’d also stop making enemies faster than we can kill them.  How much blood are we willing to exchange for oil?  Will it stop when it’s OUR blood being spilled?

I personally have several fuel saving technologies (in use since 1984) (click) that could cut the use of fossil fuel by 50%, with a payback time between 6 months and 5 years depending on the application; this is assuming that people retrofit the technology… it would be MUCH less expensive (and potentially more efficient) to simply incorporate it OEM.

There are over 5000 fuel-saver patents that are NOT incorporated into any vehicle.   Nearly a hundred years ago Charles Nelson Pogue invented a carburetor that would take an ordinary 4 door car over 200 mpg with perfect power and pretty much zero pollution.

There is no question in my mind that, with publicly EXISTING technologies, the USA could reduce oil imports to accept oil only from ‘friendly’ countries (like Canada and Mexico) within a couple of years and be totally oil independent within 5 years; just with fuel-saving technologies that I know are practical and inexpensive.
(Cutting down the military use of oil would be a tremendous help).

I have several other energy saving technologies too, like my capacitive power supply (that could be incorporated into smart-grids and appliances).  I’m no genius (as my wife can attest), I developed all of this with only the resources available to the average homeowner and using technology available nearly 100 years ago.

I have felt the sharp edge of Vested Interest suppression…
I have many stories about that (click)

I believe:
Talk (and presentations) about energy policy won’t change anything until suppression is removed.
NO progress will happen as long as government energy policy is influenced by Vested Interest.
NO progress will happen as long as Vested Interest is allowed to directly suppress innovators.

The government itself is one of the Vested Interest, receiving up to $0.70 of every fossil-fuel dollar via various taxes (starting with wellhead tax and including income tax from industry employees).

Most people think it is some wild “conspiracy theory” if anyone claims that the government has ever prevented an invention from coming to market. If you are willing to explore the idea, WIRED magazine just published a story on this topic that you can read here:
As it turns out, any potentially “disruptive” technology will be evaluated for its “national security” impact (I wonder by whom? And by what criteria?) and dealt with accordingly.  The suppressed technology is usually stored in Government archives…

Virtually all energy policy is more political than practical and what is practical is ignored or bypassed (for example: car companies receive minor fines for not meeting fuel efficiency mandates or they bypass the law by creating an entirely new class of automobile like SUV).

REAL energy-saving and energy-producing technologies have been suppressed for over a century.
The government has, hidden in secret, several free-energy and anti-gravity technologies, withheld from the public under guise of National Security.
Just release them and our fossil-fuel issues are over.  Bring the military home to help re-build America.  Help the world and rebuild our reputation.
But none of this will happen as long as Vested Interest controls the government.

Capitalistic Politics, supporting the Vested Interest, is like a Cancer in our Republic.  I think it has metastasized, adding Capitalistic Socialism, which encourages entitlement mentality and is skewed to allow the rich to get richer at the expense of the public, with the government taking ALL of the risk.

Solve Capitalistic Politics in a way that releases the innovative capability of the American People and we’ll automatically solve the energy crisis.
American innovators have ALREADY solved the problem many times and in many ways; and every real answer has been suppressed!

Any ‘energy policy’ discussion that doesn’t first address Capitalistic Politics is, in my opinion, futile.
That’s why I take my innovations directly to the people.

Solve Capitalistic Socialism (stop government from ‘taking care of us’ for the profit of Vested Interest) and we’ll regain the Constitutional rights and freedoms that made us great.  We’ll also regain the essential element of being allowed to FAIL.

I appreciate that some very smart people are trying to address the USA energy policy and I think they’ll come up with lots of good ideas… but I firmly believe nothing presented to the government will succeed in any meaningful way unless the issue of Vested Interest is addressed first.

An extremely focused example is: President Obama won’t put the solar panels back onto the roof of the Whitehouse.  President Carter put them there and President Reagan removed them.  This is a simple and clear indication of the past and present administration’s agenda and intentions.

Making presentations to the fox in control of the henhouse is a waste of energy; bad energy policy in my opinion.

This is the elephant in the room.

May the blessings be?

George Wiseman

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An OverUnity Formula?

I recently (November 2014) had an interesting (to me anyway) thought while contemplating the Water Powered Generator concept I notified my eNews subscribers about in our enews and a blog update on the old site.

There may be a way to mathmatically ‘prove’ and optimize many over-unity and/or free energy (OU FE) technologies with a simple formula taught in high school physics class.

I’ve noticed a common denominator of many of the OU FE technologies is speed or velocity.

If we use the formula KE = 1/2M*V2,
Kinetic Energy equals one half Mass times Velocity Squared;
we find that velocity is vitally important to efficiently getting energy out of a system.

Let’s take examples of a weight of 10 lbs rising 1 foot and a 1 lb weight rising 10 feet.
Both have done 10 ft/lbs of ‘work’.

Now assume both happened in 1 second.

The KE of the first would be (10/2)*(1*1) = 5

The KE of the second (lighter but faster weight) would be (1/2)*(10*10) = 50

The KE of the lighter faster weight is 10x more than the larger slower weight, even though the ‘work’ done was identical!

Take oxidation as another example:  If iron oxidizes slowly, we call it rust and there is little way to extract energy from it.  If it oxidizes faster, we call it burning and it is hot enough for us to convert some of the heat energy to kinetic energy.  If it oxidizes even faster, we call it an explosion (mix with aluminum to make thermite) and conversion of potential chemical energies to kinetic energy is even more efficient.

With gasoline, we average 3 BTU per combustion event in an internal combustion engine.  If we used 3 BTU of dynamite, the piston would be blown through the bottom of the engine.  The amount of thermal energy (3 BTU) is exactly the same.  The difference is the speed of combustion.
This is why the Bourke Engine was/is so efficient, it is designed to operate with fuel that detonates.
BTW, the safe way to dispose of old dynamite is to burn it in a fire; it doesn’t explode when burned, it just burns like a log.

So, my point is that, technologies using velocity as part of their energy conversion system make use of the part of the KE equation that is velocity squared.

You only consider 1/2 mass, and you square velocity; so moving mass isn’t as effective as increasing velocity.
As the velocity increases, the KE increases squared.  If you are looking for OU FE, (or even just high efficiency) you need to pay attention to velocity.

Back to the so called Water Powered Generator.  While this generator isn’t really water powered (no combustion of water), it does use water as the medium to convert pressure to velocity.
So MAYBE… If the technology is valid, or at least for this theory / concept to be valid… We could work out the energy it takes to pump small amounts of water to high pressure compared to the energy we get back from releasing that pressurized water through a nozzle designed to convert pressure to the highest velocity possible, onto a device (like a Pelton Wheel) optimized to convert that velocity to Kenetic Energy…

Pressure / Mass conversion charts for Pelton Wheels are available online; so a person could quickly see how much KE you’d get for any given pressure (say 200 psi) and mass (of water).  Then, find the data needed to figure out how much energy it’d take for an efficient pump to pump that volume of water to that pressure.

Comparing these two sets of data would tell you if it takes less energy to pump the water than you get from the output.
Logic says it won’t be OU, because it should take just as much energy to pump to high pressure as you get back from releasing that pressure (plus resistance losses) but this line of thinking is the only one I currently see as a possible theory…

So, what are some other examples of OU FE technologies that use speed as part of their conversion of energies?

I’ve seen MANY different configurations of electromagnetic induction technologies, most of which require an extremely fast pulse or discharge to exhibit OU effects.  For examples research Edwin Gray, Joesph Newman and John Bedini.

I’ve seen several capacitive discharge OU technologies.
Like this YouTube video, this theory and this schematic.
More research resources / examples:
Charging a capacitor without loss
A motor circuit that works?
Capacitive Discharge WaterGun
Capacitive Discharge Motor
Capacitive Water Explosion (to make water a fuel)

BTW, I proved that capacitors are actually electromagnetic devices too (truely opposite of inductors), by putting a flat coil in between two plates and putting AC onto the plates; the coil output an AC voltage and current, proving that there is an actual magnetic field between the plates of a capacitor.

Interesting new way to collect energy from vibrations using parrallel plates.

Energy Conserver Theory:
Note that I (George Wiseman) have a personal theory that heat, light and magnetisum are side effects of electron flow and do not ‘consume’ electricity.
I believe that these ‘loads’ don’t consume power, I think the way we currently design circuits cause power sources to neutralize themselves.
If my theory is correct, a person should be able to design circuits that ‘recycle’ electricity; having electron flow in ways that do not allow the source to neutralize itself (or at least slow that effect down).
I describe this theory and show some experiments to prove it in my Energy Conserver Book 1 and Energy Conserver Book 2.
I designed a circuit similar to the Tesla Switch years before I knew Tesla’d already done it.


For a practical (and free) Guide to Free Energy technologies, go HERE!

For plans to build a Free Energy Accumulator, go HERE!

For plans on how to build a Free Energy Motor / Generator, go HERE!


For another answer to “IS FREE ENERGY REALLY POSSIBLE?”

Yes! And thermodynamics has been extended since 1977 to include systems that output more than we have to input as long as they’re open to other sources of potential energy from the environment. 
Check out this simple article that gives a basic feel for this concept:


Many conventionally trained academics deny the possibility that a machine can produce more work than we’re required to supply on the input. As long as a system is open to the environment where more potential energy can enter the machine, then more work can be done than we had to pay for.




The downfall to conventional academia is that the concepts of energy and potential energy are taught completely backwards and there is no accounting for what the actual source potential for electrical charge even is or where it comes from. 




Once the distinctions are straightened out, then we can see that not only is it possible to create a free energy machine, if we build them according to the natural principles of open systems, it is practically a requirement for them to output more than we have to input. 




Closed system thermodynamics as taught in school only apply to closed heat systems, yet the entire field of physics, etc. try to apply it to electromagnetics, mechanical systems, you name it. The fact of the matter is that conventional closed system thermodynamics actually do not even apply to any natural system in the Universe – because every natural system is open to other sources of potential energy!




We recommend reading a copy of The Quantum Key by Aaron Murakami as a basic primer that explains the reality of free energy systems in terms so simple, only a junior high school level understanding is needed. 




The Quantum Key is actually a simplified Unified Field Theory for the layman that links gravity, inertial, electricity, mass, light speed, etc… all together in a seamless manner and even gives a simple explanation of what Time may actually be. Make sure to at least read the descriptions of the chapter on the website below!




This book is available at a hugely discounted price, which will change soon, so make The Quantum Key a part of your library – its a perfect companion to the Bedini SG Trilogy!
Another OU technology…
Jim Murray & Paul Babcock demonstrated the SERPS unit, which lit 50 watts of bulbs for a net draw of only 1 watt from the power supply. That is a COP of 50.0, which is 5000% more work done than the net draw from the transformer.

Get your own  FREE ENERGY BIBLE 

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Brown’s Gas (HHO) Pistonless Pump Replication Notes

 To ‘comment’ you will need an eagle-research user account (it’s free).  The website is designed to be spammer resistant, so some people may have trouble posting in the Forums.
If you have any trouble posting in the forum after you are logged in with your eagle-research user account, just contact me and I’ll fix the issue.
Here is the link to the (FREE as of Feb 2022) Brown’s Gas Pump Resource Product, where I will post relevant documents and information gleaned from everywhere I can.
FAQ: George I really would like to know whether Al Throckmorton or any other person in the OU field, has been able to confirm or replicate the Lord’s Pump output results of 30 gallons per minute at 260 PSI (that is definitely overunity compared to the input).
I’ve since done the math and it comes out to 1800 useable watts output if you use the pressurized water to drive a pelton wheel.  Obviously if you took 250 watts from 1800 watts you could close loop the system and have over 1500 continuous watts FREE output from an apparatus small enough to put in your basement.
Al Throckmorton gave me those figures personally, face to face.  The Lord’s Pump is Al’s project so he (and his team) is ‘hands on’ and should know what they are talking about.
Al is happy to have someone duplicate the project.  I trust Al because I’ve known him as a high integrity guy for decades.  That’s the only reason I’m taking some time from my other projects to confirm (or disprove) his statement.
Personally I think the pump can do 30 gallons per minute OR 250 psi, not 30 gallons per minute AT 250 psi.  Either way, it’ll be a fun project.

Here’s a quick video I put on YouTube to show the Phases of Brown’s Gas Combustion.

The video demonstrates:

1. How I use water displacement to assure that the bottles contain nothing but pure Brown’s Gas at near SATP.

2. That Brown’s Gas (HHO) contains combustible heavier than air constituent(s) by showing, after as long as 10 minutes, an upright open bottle still contains a combustible gas.

Given: hydrogen is MUCH lighter than air and escapes any open bottle in seconds.
Ask any scientist how long hydrogen would remain in an open bottle.  The hydrogen escapes at least as quickly as the bottle initially fills with water.

The reason I use a bottle with a narrow neck for this demonstration, is to slow down the diffusion of air into the bottle (air that mixes with and gradually carries away (dilutes) the heavier than air gasses) not to slow down the escape of the hydrogen.

3. You can now see the ‘ring of fire‘ I’ve described in the past. This demonstrates not only a ‘rolling donut’ of flame but that ‘open air’ combustion of these ‘heavier than air’ constituents is fairly slow; not the detonation you get from a SATP stoichiometric mixture of hydrogen and oxygen (one of the most powerful explosions short of nuclear).

4. See that ‘closed bottle’ combustion of the ‘heavier than air’ components results in an instantaneous ‘ping’ (instead of a BANG) and the gases condense to water.

Hmmmm… It’d be interesting to record and analyze that ping…

My theory is that Brown’s Gas contains a special form of water that I call ‘Electrically Expanded Water’ (ExW).  This form of water would normally be lighter than air BUT it acts like a magnetic ‘glue’ to allow additional hydrogen and oxygen atoms to cluster into what Ruggero Santilli calls ‘magnecules‘, which are heavier than air.

The ER50 electrolyzer allows you to demonstrate this combustible constituent of BG (HHO).

5. That a pop bottle can contain the pressures and temperatures resulting from a pure BG explosion, when the BG is at stoichiometric SATP.

6. That there are three phases of BG (HHO) combustion;
1. explosion/combustion,
2. steam/pressure,
3. condensation/vacuum

Knowing the characteristics of these three phases of combustion helps to design fun and practical applications for Brown’s Gas.  Like ‘fireworks‘ or bottle rocket fuel or canon fuel or fuel for internal combustion

Pistonless water pumps have been around for a long time.

Video explanation: Difference between hydrogen and carbon fuel combustion

You really need to understand BG combustion characteristics to design a pump that efficiently uses BG as a fuel.

Yull Brown demonstrated using BG to pump waterbut didn’t use the BG explosion and steam pressure to pump the water.  He sucked water into the pump using the BG vacuum and pumped water out using high gas pressure from the electrolyzer generated pressure (not the BG explosion pressure).
See BG DVD 1 for two examples of this inefficient way to pump water.  It’s inefficient because it took 19 times more energy (wattage) to make the high pressure BG than he gets back by only using the implosion and electrolyzer generated gas pressure to pump the water.

In this collaboration we’ll use the pressures generated by BG combustion and steam to pump the water (like this video)…
Note this water bottle rocket video shows how water can be ‘pumped’ at high pressure/velocity using a low pressure (ambient pressure) BG explosion.

Using the explosion technique, we can keep the electrolyzer generated pressure low (about 1 psi) and still pump water to pressures greater than 25 psi… Which allows us to fuel the pistonless water pump with a low pressure ER50 electrolyzer.  Or better yet, the AquaCure.

We have some ideas to increase efficiency by designing the pump chamber to increase the effectiveness of the explosion/steam phase of combustion.

We can’t call this project the Lord’s Pump, because Al doesn’t want his pump name to be associated with a project that is testing for OU, because that would compromise his funding sources.

We’ve already made some progress with designing the initial experimental unit and I’d like to see this project replicated in several places.

My current thinking is that the ‘extra’ energy is due to water fog explosions.  Walter Jenkins talks about such explosions in this interview.  To ‘ignite’ the water fog I’d use a version of Peter Lindemann’s Plasma Ignition, see a video here.  And a series here, click, click, click.  Plasma Ignition update.  With this technology, the Brown’s Gas just acts as a catalyst, not the power source, to help the plasma ignition reliably ignite the water fog.

I’ve got several other projects on the go, so please understand it’ll take me some time to properly support for this BG Pump Project on my website.

Anyone is welcome to join the BG Pump forum, to lurk or contribute thoughts and/or collaborate on independent duplication projects.

Note that each participant will be required to fund their own version (if they are building one).  I expect the cost of the experiment to be in the $1000 to $2000 range, depending on what skills and resources you have.  I’ll help as I can but it’ll mostly just be forum logistics and consultation advise.

A spinoff of this research could be an internal combustion engine running on BG.  Not a normally aspirated engine running on BG like I show in BG Video 3, but a ‘closed combustion‘ engine similar to the PAPP design.  PAPP information sales video.

It could be that very little BG would be needed, if we combine Plasma Spark technology with Cold Fog Technology.  This combination might allow us the OU we are looking for.

Here’s a link to a compilation on Plasma Plugs.

From ExtraOrdinary Science Issue 1 – January/February/March 2015, page 18.
Al Throckmorton tells Steve “12 volts pulse DC power is supplied to produce gas (BG).  Tirlithium citrate (an original ingredient of 7-up) disassociates water immediately.”


Video to make a Hand powered Pump made of PVC Pipe.

Video to make your own inexpensive Check Valves.  Of course, in my version I’ll need to add a ‘flow switch’.


From: Douglas McCain <>

Subject: Lord’s Pump Project Update

Date: November 9, 2015 8:31:44 PM PST

It has been quite a while since we have given you an update, but we have made a lot of progress on our way to having our first pump ready for installation in Uganda.

We have recently operated the pump for periods of 5 hours, 4 hours and 3 hours, to test it under continuous operating conditions.   During those tests the operation cycle times improved from 40 seconds, to 24 seconds to 3 seconds respectively.

We were able to generate pressures of over 200 psi consistently.   Some of our delay has been due to the fact that during setup we accidentally reached a pressure of 700 psi, requiring us to rebuild the unit twice.

During the last run the unit started to misfire and the run was discontinued prematurely.  This was because of spark plug failure.  Fortunately, in the past few months, advances in plug design have been made to handle high power plasma ignition systems like ours.

We also needed to modify the control circuit to make sure the gas generation system is shut down and an alarm activated, in the event the system fails and requires maintenance.  These required changes to the control system are being made, and the continuous endurance operating trials can begin again.

We are getting closer to a reliable system

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EzeKiel’s Wheel Insights

I haven’t proceeded any further for years, but recently (November, 2020) had an insight…
MOST of the torque generated by such a wheel occurs in the middle third.  

So the water ‘back pressure’ could be significantly reduced if the wheel ‘enters’ the reservoir at about 1/3 up from the bottom of the wheel, NOT at the bottom of the wheel.  
This would significantly reduce the back pressure without significantly reducing the wheel’s potential torque.

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Hour Meter doesn’t work

If the red light on the hour meter is flashing when gas is being produced, the inner wiring is fine and if the hour meter is not working it needs replaced.

If the hour meter red light is NOT flashing when gas is being produced, we go into the machine (take the hood off and   check that the hour meter is getting voltage (with a volt meter) applied to the hour meter tabs.

If it’s not getting voltage, we fix the wires.
If it is getting voltage, we replace the hour meter.

I believe the problem is that one or both of the wires (internally) leading to your hour meter has a bad connection where the wire connects INSIDE the terminal ends.  This bad connection in not visible to the naked eye and requires a voltmeter or ohm-meter to discover.

The fix is really easy for anyone who knows how to use a soldering iron (we now solder all these connections).

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White powder around base of Tower Cap.

That would be lye and indicates that you have a tiny gas leak there.

I’d love it if you’d send me a picture of it for my (eventually) trouble-shooting guide.

After the picture, remove the Tower Cap, clean the lye off (wipe first, then rinse several times with a damp cloth or sponge until the slippery feeling is gone) Don’t let water get down inside the machine (past the black collar).

Then seal the threads with Teflon Tape as per the Operation Manual and/or this video: 

Put 9 to 12 clockwise wraps of Teflon Tape around the top of the silver water fill stem.

Put the Tower Cap back on, making sure it is straight up (not cross-threaded).

You shouldn’t need to remove the Tower Cap very often

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Gas leak

1. Is the green gas production light on?  

Yes = proceed.

No = get in touch with me

Since your green light stays on and does not flicker, we’ve eliminated the possibility of a partially plugged gas out hose.
So the issues we’ll now test for are:
1. Not enough gas production (usually a lean lye mixture)
2. A gas leak (fairly easy to find)
3. A bad electrical connection (power to or from the electrolyzer)

Next: Remove the Cap from the Water Fill stem (black top water-fill cap or the Tower Cap as appropriate) and look down the silver stem with a flashlight to confirm bubble production…  Do this with the fan running (so power is on and timer is activated) and liquid level near full…
For this test, the fluid should be about 1/4 inch (6mm) above the plastic block inside so you can see the bubbles coming out of the top holes in the white plastic block.
It helps if the machine is cool when you do this test, so that the ‘lye mist’ isn’t rising to cloud your view.

Are there lots of bubbles, few bubbles or no bubbles?

2. Is there gas being made in the electrolyzer?

With the green light on, take off the black water fill cap (or tower cap) on the top of the machine.  Check (look) down the stem with a flashlight and see if there is bubbling (gas being made).  This assumes your water level is above the plastic block inside, so you can see the bubbling.

Yes = proceed.
No = get in touch with me

3.  Re install the fill cap or Tower Cap and look for gas leak(s).

You can check if gas is coming out your cannulas by putting them in a glass of water.  Yes, gas will come out only one or the other of the tubes, depending on which has the least restriction under the water.

If gas is being produced and not coming out your cannulas, then it is leaking out before it gets to the cannulas.  Find the leak (see below).

If you are getting bubbling in one bubbler and not the next, then there is ABSOLUTELY a gas leak between where the bubbles are coming out and the next bubbler.
Same if you are getting bubbles to the final bubbler but not out the cannula, there is a leak (usually in the bubbler lid) that isn’t allowing the gas to get to your cannulas.

Common reasons for leaks are loose or miss-threaded container lids, loose fittings (seal broken to lid), hose connections and Humidifier pressure release. 

OR, (if bubbling in the Humidifier and not in the Drinking Water Bubbler) it could be a plugged Drinking Water Bubbling Stone, so the ‘gas leak’ is gas venting out the pressure relief valve on the top of the Humidifier

You can find gas leaks using the ‘soapy water technique below OR (if it is the bubblers) by submerging the bubblers under pure water in a bucket or sink.

To make a soapy water solution, put a good squirt of dish soap into 1/2 cup of water.  Mix it in gently to minimize bubbles.  Then you’ll use a small paint brush to brush the solution over any seal (some people use a small spray bottle), trying to make a soap film that will trap any escaping gas and show you bubbles.

You’d need to turn on the machine to do this effectively (gas flow makes leaks show up by making bubbles).  
It also helps to PLUG (with your finger or a vinyl cap) the gas output fitting on the top of the Drinking Water Bubbler, because this will allow pressure to build up and make the leak ‘worse’ and easier to find.

Don’t just tighten hose connections and get frustrated (that leads to broken fittings and hoses stuck on too tight to remove, increasing frustration).  
Use one of the ‘gentle’ above techniques to actually find the leak, so you can address it and fix it.  All the connections should seal without excessive force.

Do you have a video I can watch? 
I really need to make such a video.  In the meantime, here is a ‘gas leak’ video that kinda (uses spray bottle instead of brush) shows how to apply the soap and what to look for.  You are making a ’soap film’ that will ‘capture’ escaping gas (if there is any) and make bubbles.

You MAY need to plug the end of the accessory hose to help find the gas leak, so pressure will build up and make the leak worse (and easier to find).

If I was trying to find if there is an additional tiny leak and isolate it, I’d start by plugging the gas output of the machine by taking the Tower cap off and installing the shipping black cap to seal off gas release.  See the green gas production light go out.  If the Green gas production light does not go out, the gas leak is in the cap or inside the machine.

Then (assuming it passes the tests so far or any found leaks have been fixed) I’d put the Tower Cap on and plug the Tower Cap gas output. See the green gas production light go out.  If the Green gas production light does not go out, the gas leak is in the Tower Cap, likely the Tower Cap threads but might be the cap you use to seal the Tower Cap gas output.  We include such a ‘plug cap’ in the Torch Kit (don’t lose it)..

Then (assuming it passes the tests so far or any found leaks have been fixed) I’d add the Humidifier and plug the gas output.   See the green gas production light go out.  If the Green gas production light does not go out, the gas leak is between the Tower Cap gas output and the Humidifier gas output.

Sealing the Tower Cap base with Teflon Tape 

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No or Low gas production

To diagnose the problem there are a series of questions.  The next question depends on the answer to the previous question so I can only ask one at a time.  
Please remember that I’m diagnosing ‘blind’ thus depend on you to be my hands and eyes.  More information is better and photos / videos are greatly appreciated.  Please include previous text with replies so I can review the information (else I end up asking the same questions over and over).

1. Does the red light come on in the main power switch when you turn it on?

Yes, Proceed to #2


Check the power receptacle and power cord to be sure there is power in the receptacle, the machine is properly plugged in and the power cord is firmly attached to the back of the machine.

Return to 1.

Note: ask about timer function and alarms…

Note: ask about fluid level…

2. Does the green gas production light come on and stay on (no flicker) when you turn on the timer switch?

No.  Proceed to #3


Since your green light stays on and does not flicker, we’ve eliminated the possibility of a partially plugged gas out hose.

So the issues we’ll now test for are:

a. Not enough gas production (usually a lean lye mixture)

b. A gas leak (fairly easy to find)

c. A bad electrical connection (power to or from the electrolyzer)

#3. Next confirm the machine is making (enough) gas:

Remove the Cap from the Water Fill stem (black top water-fill cap or the Tower Cap as appropriate) 

and look down the silver stem with a flashlight to confirm bubble production…  Do this with the fan running (so power is on and timer is activated) and liquid level OVER the holes in the white plastic block down inside…

For this test, the fluid should be about 1/4 inch (6mm) above the plastic block inside so you can see the bubbles coming out of the top holes in the white plastic block.
For people having difficulty seeing down the tube, you can also use a ‘dip stick’ to verify fluid level.  A wooden skewer or chop stick works well)

The plastic block itself, not the standoffs, is about 5 3/4” (14.5 cm) from the top of the silver water fill pipe.

The FULL fluid level is about 5 1/8” (13 cm) from the top of the silver water fill pipe.

It helps if the machine is cool when you do this test, so that the ‘lye mist’ isn’t rising to cloud your view.

Before going to the next step I need to confirm the machine is making gas INSIDE the electrolyzer tank.

Are there lots of bubbles, few bubbles or no bubbles?

If the liquid isn’t above the holes, you won’t be able to see the gas bubbling out of the holes.

No bubbles.  

Please confirm what the green light is doing when the bubbling is stopped (solid green, flashing or off)?

The green light doesn’t come on when I turn on the timer switch .

Is there an ALARM sounding?

Does the green light come on when you turn on the main power, press the top timer switch button and REMOVE the water fill cap?

If yes then you likely have a sludge block in your gas-out hose.

If no, contact us for further instructions.

If the light starts flashing too much, to where gas production (bubbling) slows down; you can likely clear the hoses by using a syringe to inject water backwards through the tubes.

In the case of the EA-H160 I’d take the bubbler stone off the end of the tube in the filter and then inject water up the tube with a syringe.

Note that the bubbling stone itself can become plugged and can usually be washed or replaced.

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Lubrication or Replacing the Cooling Fan

First, as long as the fan is spinning ‘noise’ doesn’t matter to it’s function.
But I can understand that it is annoying.

Most fans do not need to be replaced, just lubricated.

We recommend a product called Fluid Film

To fix, take the lid off (I won’t void your warranty for following my instructions).

4 handle screws and 4 screws on each side, (put them in a bag to prevent loss).
You may see the plastic ring around the fill stem come unsnapped as you lift off the cover.  I’d ‘resnap’ it together now so it’ll be properly in place when you replace the cover.

Be CAREFUL when running the machine when the cover is off (to test for fan operation).  The electrolyzer side is low voltage 28 VDC and the power supply side is high voltage.

There is slight danger of electrical shock on the high voltage side of the firewall (the electrolyzer is on the low voltage side of the firewall.  When not actually running the machine (with cover off) you can unplug the power to the AquaCure to be SURE there is no electrical risk.

Then with the hood off (because it’s easier to lubricate from the inside), push the fan ‘out’ a bit to open up a gap so that you can spray the fluid film into the gap.  Spin the fan and spray again.

This will lubricate the inner bushing and should eliminate the noise.

Best to lubricate it from the inside of the machine.  No fan removal is required.  Just push or pull the fans out, to reveal a gap that you can spray the Fluid Film into and all ‘grinding or squealing noise’ should disappear.

If needed, we can send you a replacement fan.
Changing out a fan is pretty straightforward.  Screwdriver level skill.

The fan itself is fairly obvious to replace, four screws to undo.

If changing out the fan, when pulling the connector off the circuit board, be sure to pull on the connector and not the wires.  The ‘plug’ fits into the ‘receptacle’ on the board, pries up the plug out of the receptacle with a flat screwdriver.

In the newer versions of the AquaCure, the fan connector is located behind the surface circuit board.  You can clip off the zip ties to remove the surface board, and then use fresh zip ties to re-mount it. 

Take care that when you remount it, that none of the exposed electrical connections on the back will touch metal.

Be sure to replace the fan so that it’s blowing air INTO the machine.  The fan is mounted so that the specifications label faces into the AquaCure.

When you replace the AquaCure hood, taking care NOT to strip out the chassis threads.  

It helps to put in the handle screws first, then the bottom screws, then the middle screws (push the tin in tight by hand when putting in the center screws, do NOT depend on the screw to ‘pull’ in the tin).

Don’t tighten the screws so much that they strip out.  Just hand tight is good enough.

If looking for a quieter fan

You would want a 4” fan, operating from 24VDC.  The current one draws 0.02 Amps (20 milliamps)

If needed, we can send you a replacement, but this is likely a better fan, because it has ball bearings instead of a sleeve.

Replacing with a new fan will require the skill of connecting the new fan to the original wiring, which is straightforward if there are two wires.  

If more than two wires on the new fan (it’s quite common for multiple speed fans) then connect the ground (usually black) and then find which of the other wires is the full speed wire to connect the red wire to.

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Tower Cap rubber gasket leaking

We tried making a gasket in the base of the Tower Cap, because we thought it’d be simpler if we could make it work.  It does work for a time, but eventually it does get chewed up and stops sealing.

Once that gasket is gone, it’s gone and you revert to the original form of sealing (Teflon Tape), as per the Operation Manual.  

That’s why we include a roll of Teflon Tape with every machine.  The roll should last for years because the Tower Cap should only be removed for maintenance cleanings every 100 hours.

Put 9 to 12 Layers of Teflon Tape wrapped on TOP of each other CLOCKWISE around the top threads.  
How to apply Teflon Tape to Fill Stem 

That will seal the leak.

When using Tefon Tape, the rubber gasket is not needed (the tape seals all by itself), just throw the gasket away.    If the rubber has come loose (or shoved down into the silver stem) just throw the gasket away.  It cannot be re-used.

We haven’t yet found a really good way to re-seal that gasket to the steel washer AND (very important) seal around the outer edges of the gasket.  
We are sure it can be done with appropriate sealants, (like perhaps Permatex Ultra Bond or E6000), and we are experimenting with various adhesives but really, it’s simpler (for now) just to wrap the threads.

Here is the proper gasket if you want to try repairing it.

If you have had a Tower Cap base leak, then lye may have run down the fill stem and into the machine.  
If that happened you may want to remove the hood and clean the inside of the machine, so the lye doesn’t take off the galvanize finish or cause short circuits.