To diagnose the problem there are a series of questions. The next question depends on the answer to the previous question so I can only ask one at a time.
Please remember that I’m diagnosing ‘blind’ thus depend on you to be my hands and eyes. More information is better and photos / videos are greatly appreciated. Please include previous text with replies so I can review the information (else I end up asking the same questions over and over).
1. Does the red light come on in the main power switch when you turn it on?
Yes, Proceed to #2
Check the power receptacle and power cord to be sure there is power in the receptacle, the machine is properly plugged in and the power cord is firmly attached to the back of the machine.
Return to 1.
Note: ask about timer function and alarms…
Note: ask about fluid level…
2. Does the green gas production light come on and stay on (no flicker) when you turn on the timer switch?
No. Proceed to #3
Since your green light stays on and does not flicker, we’ve eliminated the possibility of a partially plugged gas out hose.
So the issues we’ll now test for are:
a. Not enough gas production (usually a lean lye mixture)
b. A gas leak (fairly easy to find)
c. A bad electrical connection (power to or from the electrolyzer)
#3. Next confirm the machine is making (enough) gas:
Remove the Cap from the Water Fill stem (black top water-fill cap or the Tower Cap as appropriate)
and look down the silver stem with a flashlight to confirm bubble production… Do this with the fan running (so power is on and timer is activated) and liquid level OVER the holes in the white plastic block down inside…
For this test, the fluid should be about 1/4 inch (6mm) above the plastic block inside so you can see the bubbles coming out of the top holes in the white plastic block.
For people having difficulty seeing down the tube, you can also use a ‘dip stick’ to verify fluid level. A wooden skewer or chop stick works well)
The plastic block itself, not the standoffs, is about 5 3/4” (14.5 cm) from the top of the silver water fill pipe.
The FULL fluid level is about 5 1/8” (13 cm) from the top of the silver water fill pipe.
It helps if the machine is cool when you do this test, so that the ‘lye mist’ isn’t rising to cloud your view.
Before going to the next step I need to confirm the machine is making gas INSIDE the electrolyzer tank.
Are there lots of bubbles, few bubbles or no bubbles?
If the liquid isn’t above the holes, you won’t be able to see the gas bubbling out of the holes.
Please confirm what the green light is doing when the bubbling is stopped (solid green, flashing or off)?
The green light doesn’t come on when I turn on the timer switch .
Is there an ALARM sounding?
Does the green light come on when you turn on the main power, press the top timer switch button and REMOVE the water fill cap?
If yes then you likely have a sludge block in your gas-out hose.
If no, contact us for further instructions.
If the light starts flashing too much, to where gas production (bubbling) slows down; you can likely clear the hoses by using a syringe to inject water backwards through the tubes.
In the case of the EA-H160 I’d take the bubbler stone off the end of the tube in the filter and then inject water up the tube with a syringe.
Note that the bubbling stone itself can become plugged and can usually be washed or replaced.