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4 Reasons Not to buy an ER HyZor (Basic) Kit
1. You are not prepared to experiment.For all the years that Eagle-Research, and others before me, have experimented with on-board electrolyzers, it is still not an exact science. We have a broad-ranging working knowledge and (I think) the best technology, but no one has yet developed an on-board electrolyzer into a neat little package that is optimized for every different vehicle.
Some people get an immediate and sometimes dramatic gain in fuel economy as well as performance. We’re gratified when this happens, but caution customers not to expect it. Most people will need to tinker with their system to achieve their best gains. You must be prepared to take small steps over time to learn the things that are not taught to mechanics, finding out how the technologies will merge with YOUR vehicle. You will be doing research that we cannot do, because we do not have the research budget of a major automotive company, we cannot test the technology on every possible year, make and model of vehicle.
If you choose to take on the challenge, we need YOU to do three things. First, be prepared to deal with ignorant and uninterested information sources (usually your vehicle dealership) to find out what you need to know about your vehicle so you can optimally merge the fuel saving technologies onto it (we do tell you what you need to find out). Second, be prepared to take time, as above, to implement the technologies. Third, TELL us your story, what you accomplished, the tips and techniques you learned all along the way, like getting the vehicle information, how you installed the technology, how you had to tune it to optimize it and your results. We really need experimenters that are willing to record and share their experience for those that will follow.
2. You are not mechanically inclined or a already have mechanic who has committed to installing it for you.Our kits are designed to be assembled and installed by people who have rudimentary (backyard) mechanical skills (we’ve even had 21 year old girls install it). Some people have ordered the kit… thinking that they can THEN find a mechanic to install it. Most mechanics are too busy and/or unwilling to take the time to learn to assemble and install the HyZor Technology. We get very few returns, but most of them are from people who never even tried the HyZor on their vehicle, because they didn’t have the skills to assemble and install it themselves. The HyZor (basic) Kit comes with a detailed instructional DVD and access to more information in our online HyZor Resources.
Most mechanics will say “It won’t work!” This is the result of ignorance. They don’t know what they don’t know and are too busy to bother to find out. These are the mechanics that will be left in the dust as on-board hydrogen technology is implemented all over the world.
I (George Wiseman) AM a mechanic (certified automotive technician). I have exactly the same training as any other government certified mechanic, so I KNOW what they are taught. But I’m also an inventor who has worked with this technology since 1974. I know what they are taught and what they are NOT taught; and I tell you, it works!
3. You think you know more about on-board hydrogen technology than I do.Again, we get returns from people who have never installed the HyZor on a vehicle. These people are the ‘experts’ who test our HyZor against other technology and find it produces less gas than they expect.
First, they do not understand that it is possible to make TOO MUCH gas and lose mileage (we explain why in the HyZor Technology book). Second, they do not understand that the QUALITY of the gas is much more important than the QUANTITY of the gas. Our HyZor is designed to produce a very high quality gas, which has the same fuel gains as ‘others’ which use 10 times more amperage. Here’s a document that tells you WHY (click here). So, if you are not going to actually install it on a vehicle and properly test it, DON’T buy it.
The HyZor currently on my personal car is one of these returns. It is gaining me 27% in economy with a smoother running engine. The fellow did a nice job of assembling it and never tried it on a vehicle, simply assuming that he knew more than I when it didn’t bench test with results he was used to seeing with his own experiments. He sent it back from New Zealand!  He didn’t understand it is the QUALITY of the gas, not the quantity that makes the difference.  I’ve spent decades learning what I know and I assure you that our technology is superior to the dozens of ME2’s out there.
4. You have ‘advancing’ knock sensor programming.Knock Sensor Challenge: Obviously I want you to succeed (as I want everyone to succeed). The on-board hydrogen technology works great, (even really simple and inefficient systems usually get some gains) WORKING is not the issue.
The issue is the interface between the on-board electrolyzer technology and your fuel system; THAT is where these technologies succeed or fail. Our first Interface technology was the Carburetor Enhancer (about 1980), to reduce the fuel consumption of a carburetor when adding vapor gasoline to the engine. The second significant interface challenge we faced was back in the late ’80s when oxygen sensors came out; our EFIE has been (and still is) a wonderfully effective solution to that.
Our third and current interface challenge is knock sensors.
Knock sensors, at first, had no effect on combustion enhancement technology (of all kinds, not just ours). Because the sensor would simply retard ignition timing when a knock was sensed. We call this ‘retarding’ knock sensor programming and it is no issue with our technology. Generally combustion enhancement causes LESS tendency to knock so people actually got the advantage of a more advanced timing for two reasons, 1. because the vehicle didn’t need to retard the timing and2. because BG causes a ‘virtual’ combustion advance because it helps the fuel burn quicker (and more completely).
However, sometime in the early 2000s, some genius in the automotive industry had a flash of insight. If advanced timing is good, then the more the better. They developed ‘new’ programming for the knock sensors so that the computer would ALWAYS advance the timing until knock was sensed and then back off until the knock was gone. The computer would then ‘test’ by advancing the timing and when knock happened, back off again. This happens many times a minute to keep the timing advanced to just before the point of knock. So they’ve achieved maximum advance… genius right?… And with normal combustion it is genius!
We call this ‘advancing’ knock sensor timing and it IS A PROBLEM with on-board electrolyzer and vapor-fuel technologies.
As already explained, the addition of BG can significantly increase the fuel’s octane (anti-knock) rating. Making the combustion LESS likely to knock. BG also ‘virtually’ causes a more advanced timing by increasing combustion speed.
So, vehicles that automatically advance their timing until the engine knocks (and then retard the timing a bit) often advance TOO FAR when BG is used because of the faster burn and the increase in octane rating.
If that happens then too much of the combustion takes place Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and combustion pressure builds too soon, fighting the upward movement of the piston on the compression stroke. The result is less power and a loss in potential mileage.Options that fix this include:1. Manually adjusting the ignition timing, retarding it toward TDC. Note: fully computerized vehicles do not have manual adjustment.2. Use lower octane fuel to compensate for the higher octane of BG addition (which saves money too).3. Add Combustion Enhancement Interface Technology (CEIT) that modifies other sensors on the vehicle to both reduce fuel consumption and retard timing. More information on these options will be included in other literature.4. Change the vehicle’s programming to ‘retarding’ ignition timing. This can be done with specialized reprograming equipment that Eagle-Research does not currently have.
Once you have confirmed that you have a knock sensor the second question is ‘Do you have the programing that automatically advances the timing?’ Your vehicle dealer service department or your mechanic may be able to tell you. If you have the ‘retard only’ programming then you are fine ‘as is’: NO special modifications other than the EFIE are needed.
If you have the ‘advancing’ programing then this is an issue that needs to be addressed to release the full gains of your combustion enhancement technology.
This issue is now the single greatest interface challenge to any combustion enhancement technology today. Eagle-Research is working on several potential solutions but until it is solved, vehicles with advancing knock sensor timing should not bother trying any version of on-board electrolyzer. 

I have good Filtered, Spring, Well, Rain or RO water, can I use it?

NOT to go into the AquaCure! , ER50 , HyZor

RO water is OK theoretically, if the RO unit is putting out 50,000 ohm water or higher. 

Most people (and businesses) don’t properly maintain their RO units so the water quality (purity) goes down.  More impurities = lower electrical resistance.  If you don’t have certified 50,000 ohm water, don’t use it or used distilled (pure) water.

I’ve never (yet) found filtered water, Deionized (RO) water or Well water pure enough to use in the humidifier or AquaCure.

You’ll quickly see this if you buy a home Distiller and feed it with your Deionized (RO) water and/or Well water.  

The problems are the IMPURITIES in the water.  Some cause poisonous gasses (you do not want to inhale), most cause rapid sludge formation which plugs internal orifices and some accumulate on the electrodes, causing the machine to eventually fail to make gas.  Some impurities cause foaming which results in rapid ejection of lye from your AquaCure, overwhelming the Humidifier and contaminating your Drinking Water.

As for the Humidifier, if the water isn’t PURE, it won’t adequately scrub the lye from the gas, resulting in lye getting into your drinking water.

You can use RO water for drinking, if you choose, but NOT in the AquaCure, filter or humidifier. 
Several reasons, including contamination (electroplating) on electrodes, excessive sludge formation, poisonous gas formation and compromised lye scrubbing.

Use ONLY distilled water in the AquaCure, Filter and Humidifier.  As pure of water as possible.

You can use whatever water you want to drink in the Drinking Water Bubbler, but I RECOMMEND drinking only BG bubbled DISTILLED water too, as I’ve done since 2005… And I’m a LOT healthier now than I was then.

Many people think drinking distilled water is bad… But think of it as PURE water.  And when you enrich it with HydrOxy gas, it becomes the most healthful water on the planet (several world renowned water experts agree).

Here is my Blog on drinking distilled water.
https://eagle-research.com/should-i-drink-distilled-water/

All that said… You can put whatever water you think is best for you in the Drinking Water Bubbler (the water you actually drink).