Author: joshr

With Capacitive Power Supply (CPS) technology, the real wattage is the LOAD amperage and voltage; not the SOURCE amperage and voltage.
For a battery charger the ‘load’ is the battery; so you measure the amperage going into your battery and the voltage of the battery to get the actual wattage being drawn from the source.  
With a CPS, the ‘source’ voltage and amperage is irrelevant; but conventional training assumes that voltage and amperage are the same in all parts of a circuit.  
For a CPS, that simply is not true because:1. The capacitor separates the source voltage from the load voltage.  The load voltage will depend on the capacitive reactance and the load resistance.  ‘Excess’ voltage, (more than the load needs) is returned to the source every alternate cycle.2. The maximum amperage is controlled by the capacitive reactance.  
A wattmeter (on the source) will confirm that the true wattage is the load voltage and amperage.
Anomolies that confuse people who are used to ‘conventional’ circuits:
1. If the load has zero or very low resistance, the ampmeter will still show full amperage flowing through the circuit.  For example: a simple Capacitive Amperage Limiting curcuit (one of the CPS options) using a 25 uF capacitor (fed by 120 VAC 60 Hz) in series with a shorted battery will show 1 amp flowing in all parts of the circuit.  A ‘conventional thinker would assume the wattage to be 1A x 120V = 120 watts.  The actual wattage will be zero because the load voltage will be zero; so the wattage is 1A x 0V = 0 watts.  A wattmeter wheel will stand still because all the power that is going into the circuit is being returned on the alternate cycle.
2. If using a Capacitive Transformer (another version of CPS) you may read one amp flowing in the high voltage side of the circuit and many amps flowing in the low voltage side.  Since ‘conventional’ thinkers are not used to using capacitors as transformers, they may think the higher amperage is ‘Free Energy’; but it’s not.  Just as in an inductive transformer, voltage has been converted to amperage.  The CT transforms with no noise, vibration or heat losses.  The actual wattage of the CT still depends on the load resistance, zero resistance = zero wattage, regardless of the amperage flowing back and forth.

Only if you use the ‘air pocket’ technique commonly used with oxy./acet. is used under water and the water depth is not too deep because BG cannot be pressurized too much or it will explode.

Ahhhh 🙂 Very good question 🙂
I used to make a HyCO 2A kit when my customers were mostly carbureted.  
The HyCO 2A didn’t work well on Fuel Injected systems because the MAP Sensor ‘read’ the input as a ‘vacuum leak’ which cause the vehicle’s computer to richen the mixture and customers would lose their gains.
My solution was to switch my attention to the sexy Water as Fuel on-board electrolyzer technology, which I call HyZor.  The HyZor worked fine on EFI engines because I’d already invented the EFIE to go with it.
What I didn’t invent was the MAP Sensor Enhancer, much to my embarrasment because it’s extremely simple to do.  The MAP Enhancer is the key (along with the EFIE) to allowing the HyCO 2A to work on EFI engines.
The ‘problem’ is that I simply don’t have time to re-tool and manufacture the HyCO 2A, even though it is generally more effective and practical than the sexy Water as Fuel HyZor.
On the bright side, our HyZor is the best on-board electrolyzer on the market.
You’ll hear more about both technologies in our upcoming eNews
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I recommend 25% lye to water by weight.  
I understand that may be a little confusing because people ask “Is that 250 grams for 1 liter or 250 grams for 750 CC?”
Actually it isn’t that critical and either will work.  I usually use the former and the latter is technically correct.
You don’t want too much lye or it will actually inhibit the electrolysis process.  It’s actually hard to have too little, as little as 5% will go a pretty good job.
Research shows that 25% is usually optimum but it takes considerably less before efficiency drops off significantly.
I like to start with the lye on the ‘upper’ end (densest mixture) when the electrolyte mixture in the HyZor is the lowest, because as you add water it will thin out the mixture.
Also, over time, there is a tiny loss of electrolyte out with the BG.  That’s why you MUST run the BG through a filter on the way to the engine… because if lye gets into your engine, it will corrode (eat) your engine’s aluminum components.

Usually foam isn’t too much of an issue in a HyZor, so most people don’t even need to worry about it.  For those people who worry about it anyway, here’s some tips:
 
Several things cause foam so the best thing to ‘do about it’ is to prevent it in the first place.  
Before assembly wash (and rinse) all the parts, that will be inside the electrolyzer, with dish soap and hot water.  
The idea is to remove any residual oils, including skin oil from your hands.  
During assembly keep the parts clean by washing your hands well and often or wearing latex gloves.
 
Use lye (NaOH) with as few impurities as possible and distilled water to make the electrolyte.
Impurities are what foams.
 
Once the electrolyte is cooled, the very best way I’ve discovered to pre-condition it is to ‘burn’ off the foam.  
This technique involves putting the electrolyte mixture into a appropriate sized glass container with a large open top (like a measuring cup capable of measuring several cups of liquid).
Then putting a couple of stainless steel plates into the cup (make sure they won’t touch), connected to a small Capacitive Power Supply, allowing a couple of amps of DC current, so that we start making BG in the cup.
As the BG comes out of the cup, I use a flame to ‘pop’ the bubbles.  
I prefer to use a BG flame (because it is pure and won’t add carbon to the mixture) but I know most people don’t yet have a WaterTorch so a soldering torch will work.
TAKE CARE to protect yourself from splattering electrolyte.  Do this in an open area, wear eye protection and protective clothing.
When the large bubbles stop forming, your electrolyte is pre-conditioned to NOT foam.
The large bubbles form because of oil on the surface, so burning off the oil prevents the problem.

A. Brown’s Gas makes the engine more efficient and ‘longer lived’ in several ways.
In this application, BG is like a catalyst; NOT a FUEL! For a PDF that details the catalytic effect (click here).
BG’s helps the fuel Burn much faster, during the time when heat energy is most efficiently converted to mechanical energy (see my Extreme Mileage 101 for why fuel burn timing is so important).
BG does this because it contains a high-energy mixture of ExW and hydrogen.  The hydrogen has a flame speed that is 5 to 7 times faster than carbon-based fuels.  And the ExW helps the carbon-based fuel molecules ‘break apart’ much easier, faster and with less endothermic energy.
Independent studies show that adding hydrogen ensures a complete burn of the fuel and increases engine torque.  Brown’s Gas is even more effective than straight hydrogen.
A fast complete burn assures that:  
1. You got the maximum possible power from your fuel.
a. Because the fuel has a very short time to burn while the piston and crankshaft are in the optimum configuration to convert heat into power.
b. Because slow and incomplete burn causes some of your fuel burning in the exhaust (catalytic converter) where you cannot get power from it.  
2. Your combustion chamber doesn’t get engine destroying and efficiency reducing carbon buildups. In fact, if you have carbon buildups, the BG will help remove them.  
3. Engine oil stays clean longer because less unburned carbon gets into the oil.  
4. Pollution is reduced by burning the fuel in the engine. 

A. Eagle-Research does not recommend storing Brown’s Gas in any kind of tank.
BG is primarily a stoichiometric mixture of hydrogen and oxygen; one of the most explosive mixtures known!  If you watch the movie ‘Outbreak’ you will see two examples of how the US Military uses hydrogen/oxygen mixture to make a ‘gas bomb’ that is non-nuclear.
As BG is compressed, there will come a point at which it will self-explode. The higher the pressure, the more violent the explosion.  
To ensure that there is no possibility of dangerous concentrations, ER HyZor technology is specifically designed to produce BG only when the engine is actually running and to consume the BG as soon as it is produced.

The EFIE Device (and the kit) are designed to deliver less than 500 mV (0.5 Volt)
 
It’s easy to test, just hook the red and black to positive and negative respectively (12 VDC) and measure the voltage across the white and green.
 
I am a mechanic and the original inventor of the EFIE Technology.  I specifically designed it to NOT possibly damage any computer.  
 
But the real proof is in experience.  I’ve sold many thousands of them since 1991 with ZERO computers damaged.

A. We recommend surplus motors with the ‘start’ windings burned out; which can be acquired at scrap prices as low as $1 per horsepower.

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