Author: joshr

A. Eagle-Research defines Brown’s Gas (aka BG, HHO or HydrOxy) as:
“A mixture of combustible gasses coming out of an electrolyzer that is specifically designed to electrolyze (split) water and to NOT separate the resulting gasses from each other.”
Brown’s Gas is a ratio of 2 parts hydrogen to 1 part oxygen and usually contains a significant water vapor component.
Brown’s Gas is made using water and electricity in specially designed electrolyzers, like our ER50.
Research indicates that Brown’s Gas has characteristics that cannot be achieved by simply mixing bottled hydrogen and oxygen in a stoichiometric ratio.
BG contains H, H2, O, O2, H2O (as water vapor) and a special 6th ‘structured’ gas that shows up in ‘dried gas’ as water vapor; George Wiseman calls 6th form of water ‘Electrically Expanded Water’ (ExW) and Chris Eckman calls it “linear water isomer with extra electrons, stable in a Rydberg Cluster”.  
The 6th form of water (ExW) then acts like a ‘glue’ that holds ‘structures’ of water together, which is why atomic oxygen and hydrogen can exist in a stable form.  These structures of water can be large enough to be heavier than air.  
Yull Brown called these structures ‘Fluid Crystal’, professor Ruggero Santilli calls them ‘Magnecules’.
Here are George Wiseman’s theories of what Brown’s Gas may be… (click) 
BG is also known under brand names like: Common-Ducted Gas, Rhode’s Gas, Spirig Gas, Hydroxy, Brown Gas, Green Gas, Klein Gas, Aquygen, HHO, SG Gas, Ohmasa Gas, Knallgas, HNG and (erroneously by WikiPedia) OxyHydrogen.
 
Brown’s Gas was originally patented in the early 1960’s by the late William Rhodes of Pheonix Arizona and he called it ‘single-ducted gas’.  
Not much happened with the gas until the late Yull Brown (then in Australia) in the 1970’s patented a better machine for making it and started to commercialize the gas for various applications (mostly to replace torch fuel gasses like acetylene).  He spent the next 30 years of his life traveling the world, selling his technology and developing variations of his machines.  He was particularly effective in the Orient, where China (in particular) was undergoing a MASSIVE buildup and they adopted the Brown’s Gas as a standard instead of developing an acetylene infrastructure.
During all that time it was known as ‘Brown’s Gas’.
After that, several people started making variations of Brown’s Gas machines and  many of them ‘brand-named’ the gas (it’s all the same gas) to try to get more market share.  This is about when the name HydrOxy popped into existence, from Alvin Crosby of New Zealand.
I’ve been working with this gas since 1986 and I’ve honored the name ‘Brown’s Gas’ to honor the inventor that commercialized it.  The world would NOT know of this gas if it wasn’t for Yull Brown.  
The name HHO popped into existence via the late Denny Klein just before the huge raise in oil prices in 2007-2008.  Denny had a very good video circulating through news media at the time, so the gas got a lot of good publicity with the trade name HHO.  
One of the excellent applications of BG is for combustion enhancement (typical 25% reduction in fuel consumption) so when Ozzie Freeman put out an eBook on how to DIY apply HHO to your vehicle and sold over a million copies, the name HHO was then ‘cemented’ in the public consciousness.
There’s lots more to the history, but that’s the Gist.
All the ‘trade names’ are for the same gas, though it can vary in QUALITY depending on the quantity (percentage) of Electrically Expanded Water (ExW).
 

Even Yull Brown allowed certain ‘myths’ about Brown’s Gas to propagate unaddressed.  I’m now trying to address them.Myth#1BG does NOT sublimate tungsten.  The tungsten liquifies, vaporizes and burns.  It’s SMOKE you are seeing (oxidized tungsten) not sublimated tungsten.  I got really dark lenses so I could observe the actual interaction and I could see the liquid puddle with the vapors coming off and burning.Sublimation is vaporization directly from solid, no liquid… Thus NO sublimation.Myth#2BG does NOT implode.  In it’s ‘pure’ form it will ALWAYS explode first, then (if in an enclosed container that withstood the explosion) a vacuum will form as the gasses combine to form water (and take up 1800 times less room).  Thus a vacuum is formed, but NOT by implosion.When the BG is burned in open air, it has a long ‘laser-like’ flame, due to the ‘net vacuum’ combustion.  The flame is actually making a ’tunnel’ in the air (because of the ’net vacuum’), and the air acts to ‘contain’ the burn, so it’s long and thin. That said, there IS one component of BG that WILL implode.  The Electrically Expanded Water (ExW, a plasma form of water) that is still water but in a gaseous form that is not water vapor or steam (if you cool it, it will not condense).  Since this ExW is water is a gaseous form, it will ‘implode’ when it loses the extra electrons that are causing it to be a plasma.But separating out this single component of BG has been a challenge.The ExW is the component that contains the ‘energy’ that people note ‘electric shock’. Myth#3Brown’s Gas changes temperature depending on which material it’s directed against.Brown’s Gas never changes it’s combustion characteristics when directed against any material.  It’s the MATERIAL that reacts differently.  BG is a ‘cool’ flame in that it radiates very little thermal energy… But it’s a HIGH energy flame.  Most of it’s energy is electrons (electrical in nature) so it directs this ‘electricity’ into the molecular structure of the material, so the material reacts to this electrical energy input and thus shows different results than when presented to a thermal flame.NOTE: BG does not ‘cut cleanly through wood’  It will bore a hole through wood, but the edges are charcoal, not ‘clean’.  It does do better than a thermal flame but I wouldn’t call the result ‘clean’.Here are a few more ‘myths’https://www.eagle-research.com/browngas/myth/myth.php
BG has some amazing applications that are real and practical.
We do not need to propagate myths to promote BG.Myths ultimately undermine the BG’s credibility.

… than a wet-cell?  Not automatically.
Efficiency depends largely on the design of the electrolyzer, power supply, electrolyte, electrolyte density, electrolyte temperature, etc. These design parameters are largely independent of whether an electrolyzer is a ‘wet-cell’ or a ‘dry-cell’.
Efficient designs are optimized for the application. There are far too many electrolyzer design variables to discuss them all and the ramifications of each here. However, if building electrolyzers, keep in mind:
General Efficiency Considerations:
1. Don’t assume that any particular electrolyte or concentration is the best. Test each electrolyte with various concentrations until you find the optimum for your electrolyzer design. The main two electrolytes are NaOH (sodium hydroxide) and KOH (potassium hydroxide). We prefer NaOH because in our electrolyzer designs NaOH is 30% more efficient than KOH.
2. Wide plates tend to be more efficient than tall ones.  You need to remove the bubbles from the plates as fast as possible, because wherever there is a bubble, there is inactive plate area.  That is the one advantage of the wire-wound design of the ‘jar’ cell from Water4Gas.
3. Electrolyzers tend to run more efficiently when hot (reduces electrolyte resistance). There will be an optimum temperature for any given electrolyzer, electrolyte and electrolyte density; it’s best to be able to control the temperature.
4. Because electrolyte lowers resistance when the temperature rises, you need to deal with an effect I call ‘amperage-runaway’.  Learn about efficient ways to control amperage-runaway (see HyZor Technology book). MOST power supply designs ‘out there’ are using technologies we abandonded decades ago.
5. It’s VITAL to use an electrolyzer design that does not allow electricity to ‘bypass’ the plates.This was never an issue in the original Faraday cell designs because the electrolyzer was just ONE cell.But in the various ‘series-cell’ designs, it becomes an issue.  If electricity bypasses the plates (through the electrolyte or electrolyte foam), then you lose gas production (and wattage efficiency).  So you want to ‘force’ the electricity to go through the cell/plate/cell/plate, etc. by making that ‘path’ less resistance.Again, this consideration is specific to series-cells, it doesn’t matter if it’s ‘wet’ or ‘dry’ design. 
Dry-cell specific Considerations:If you do use a ‘remote reservoir’, here are a couple of design tips to raise efficiency. 
1. Designs with pumps tend to eliminate the ‘surging’ that happens in convection cells. Be sure to use a pump large enough to remove the bubbles from the cells ASAP. If this is done, excellent results can be achieved with narrow plate spacing.  Of course this also means a larger reservoir, because the bubbles need to be removed from the fluid before re-entering the electrolyzer.  Perhaps a vortex could help.
2. Design for even flow of electrolyte through all cells, unrestricted exit of the liquid/gas mixture from the top of the cell-pack (like these people did, click) to the reservoir and DO NOT allow the electrolyte from any cell to mix with any other cell’s electrolyte until the electrolyte is well away from the electrolyzer (to prevent electricity from bypassing cells).
Wet-cell Efficiency:
For the world’s most efficient and practical (as far as we know) electrolyzer designs, read our Brown’s Gas books 1 and 2, the HyZor Technology book and watch Brown’s Gas videos 2 and 3.  Then ask us about Pressure Relief tubes, Gridplates and the Barbell neutralzone.
Our HyZor, as currently designed, could be considered to be a compact hybrid ‘wet/dry- cell’ wherein the bulk of the electrolyte is separate from the (dual) electrolyzers. 
I have not yet seen a dry-cell or wet-cell that can match or exceed the efficiencies of our current HyZor design, which have achieved 20+ MMW.

In theory yes, there are ways to do it; but we do NOT recommend it.

Brown’s Gas uses a lot of electricity to make.

BG requires special explosion-proof containers.

BG can’t be stored under high pressure (it will explode).

In addition, the BG flame in it’s pure form will melt through cooking pots in seconds, so you have to dilute it in various ways (reducing it’s efficiency).

You’re better off using the electricity to do the heating directly. And there are much better (safer and cheaper) options to ‘store’ energy.

However: Mixing BG with a carbon-fuel is a GREAT idea as the BG acts like a catalyst, allowing the carbon fuel to release more heat than it otherwise would.

Note: There are ‘rumors’ (patents and plans on the internet) that, using ‘catalytic materials’, a BG heater can be constructed that radiates large amounts of heat (using little electricity).  I have not yet seen proof that this works.

FAQ: Using BG in a furnace?

Not directly, for three reasons:

1. Brown’s Gas should be considered to be an ‘electrical’ flame, not a BTU flame.  It’s dominant energy is electrical, not thermal, in nature.  Brown’s Gas does not efficiently heat air or water, such mediums dissipate the electrical energy with minimal temperature rise.

2. Brown’s Gas also burns MUCH faster than regular furnace gasses like natural gas or propane and would result in furnaces, designed for slower burning fuels, to explode.

3. BG takes more energy to make than you get back from it (burning it directly and alone as a fuel).

So NO… Brown’s Gas isn’t practical to use as a ‘stand alone’ fuel in regular gas furnaces.

NOTE:
BG is VERY inefficient to directly heat air and water.
There are people who use BG to heat another material (other than air or water directly).  The BG seems to be able to heat some materials to hotter temperatures than if you ‘just’ used electricity, thus achieving ‘over-unity’ heating.  I have NOT confirmed this effect myself, yet.

Two such possibilities are:

1. H-CAT example.  BG heating a catalytic material.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd_yrSldFWw

2. Lots of people try heating a secondary material (like copper or magnesium oxide) with Brown’s Gas, and then having that material heat the air or water (there’s even patents for this technique).

While this technique is more efficient at heating than the ‘bare’ flame, I have not yet seen any proof that this ‘Rube Goldberg’ and expensive technique is more efficient than simply putting the electricity (needed to make the Brown’s Gas anyway) directly into a simple, efficient and inexpensive off-the-shelf resistive element.

There are (scam?) plans on the internet that use BG (HHO) to heat copper pipes… YES, BG will heat copper pipes and a fan blowing through the pipes will blow the heat into the room; BUT does it really take only 300 watts of energy to make 6000 watts of heat?  No one has yet proven that to me.

The EXCEPTION is that Brown’s Gas DOES act like a catalyst to increase the efficiency of hydrocarbon-fuel combustion.  If you use Brown’s Gas IN ADDITION TO a hydrocarbon fuel, then good things happen.

We have been with using Brown’s Gas to increase the efficiency of internal combustion and then add water to compensate for the fuel mass that we have reduced (water replaces the volume of fuel normally used as the combustion ‘cooling’ fluid).  We have the world’s best such technology and we describe it in our ‘Brown’s Gas‘, ‘HyZor Technology‘, ‘Water Injection‘ and ‘Super Gas Saver Secrets‘ books.

https://eagle-research.com/shop

The catalytic effect works at the molecular level, helping the fuel’s atomic bonds to break with less energy input.  I call it ‘lowering the combustion self-propagating endothermic energy requirement’.  Thus, when the fuel burns, the combustion requires less of the heat energy produced to keep the combustion happening.  This allows (for the same fuel mass) more (exothermic) energy to be released as heat.  The quantity of additional heat energy released is far greater than the energy we use to make the Brown’s Gas.  Of course, less efficient technologies than ours have less gain.

Here is proof that BG assists carbon-fuel combustion, download PDF here:
https://www.eagle-research.com/cms/node/443

Note: The actual energy put in (to make Brown’s Gas) is 98% recovered in the combustion process; that’s another reason why the catalytic enhancement shows up as a significant ‘free energy‘ gain as heat.

Our research so far indicates that this catalytic effect is much more effective on long chain hydrocarbons.  So Methane (and Compressed Natural Gas) has the least gain, Gasoline (Petrol) has a greater gain, Diesel has a very good gain (around 50%) and heavy oils (like the crude used to fuel ocean going ships) get the greatest gain (can replace up to 90% of fuel with water).  Coal combustion is enhanced too.  All this assumes, of course, proper implementation of the technology.

This data is based on our own internal combustion research and on data acquired from various other sources that add hydrogen to assist carbon-fuel combustion.  Our research has been done at ratios from about 5,000:1 carbon-fuel:Brown’s Gas.  It is true that higher concentrations of Brown’s Gas result in even more fuel savings, but there is an optimum ratio for any given application (we are still researching to find that ratio).  After the volume of BG required for the catalytic effect is optimized, any additional BG results in mileage lost (in internal combustion applications) and reduction in combustion temperature (in external combustion applications).

Because we were initially researching with increasing the efficiency of internal combustion in mobile applications, we were limited in by the vehicle’s electrical input.  Stationary applications are not so limited.  Since the actual energy put in (to make Brown’s Gas) is recovered in the combustion process, and the electricity didn’t come at such a dear price as in vehicle applications (up to 14 watts of fuel burned to make 1 watt of BG), there is a much greater potential for profitable efficiency gains in stationary applications (where the electricity to make the BG comes from the Grid).

I’m able to replace 50% of my Natural Gas in my shop with Brown’s Gas and still retain all the original equipment.  By measuring the temperature of the air coming out of the furnace, I find the actual heating value of the mixture is exactly the same as the original NG alone (even though, by volume, BG has only 1/3 the ‘BTU’ value of NG; about 10 BTU per liter for BG and 30 BTU per liter for NG). Putting in more BG than 50% changes the combustion flame too much and the gas becomes incompatible with the furnace (can cause explosions).

Because of the cost of my electricity, water and Natural Gas, BG costs me only 10% of the NG.  Every liter of gas I replace with BG saves me 90% of the cost of the NG.  My electricity is $0.06 per kilowatthour.  Water is $2 per 18 liters (about 5 gallons).  Our WaterTorches make 1860 liters of gas for every liter of water put into them.  Our WaterTorches use less than 2 watthours to make each liter of gas.
https://www.eagle-research.com/cms/node/620
https://www.eagle-research.com/cms/node/109

I see absolutely no reason that the same setup couldn’t be used with propane.  We simply plumb the BG (out from the WaterTorch) into the furnace-gas flow just before the furnace-gas burner shutoff switch (I also add a special bubbler (to prevent backfire and gather excess moisture), a check valve (to prevent furnace-gas from escaping if the BG is disconnected) and a shutoff valve (normal for any gas appliance)).  The BG then mixes with the furnace-gas before it goes into the burner, both enhancing the combustion of the furnace-gas and partially replacing it.

The WaterTorch is easily set for producing an exact volume of gas, and the pressure will rise to just above the furnace-gas pressure (coming from the final stage regulator) automatically, so a precise balance (and ratio) of BG to furnace-gas is simple and automatic.  The WaterTorch is slightly modified (easily done) for automatic shutoff when your furnace shuts off and for automatic water fill.

I’ve done it.  It’s simple.  I see no reason that would prevent anyone from doing it (besides perhaps officials getting concerned because they don’t know what’s happening safety wise and the utility might change your meter, thinking the old one went bad (they did that with mine).  This next Winter I’ll have it in my home as well as my shop.

On the subject of safety.  In every way, BG is safer than NG, or Propane.  It is lighter than air, it simply cannot build up a combustible concentration in a room that has even the simplest ventilation (cracks allowing air to move).  BG is produced on demand, there is no stored gas.  Our WaterTorches (electrolyzers) are designed extremely strong, well able to contain any internal explosions, usually without damage.

The internet seems to be deleting emails to and from eagle-research.
I’m working on getting that corrected but in the meantime, here’s how you can help yourself.
Instructions to Whitelist Eagle-Research.com 

BTW, I have another communication method which you can use.

You can log into your ER user account and send me private messages directly on my website, so there is NO actual email.  
I get the message as soon as I log into my account, which I do nearly everyday.

So you’d log in at

https://www.eagle-research.com/cms/user

Then go to your account, (see MY ACCOUNT button on upper left sidebar)

Then click on ‘Contact’ in the upper row of links.  Your name should already be filled in as the sender and my name as the receiver.

 
I have been led to believe that I NEED a MAP Sensor Enhancer.
If you have a MAP sensor then you NEED a MAP Sensor Enhancer if you want to optimize fuel economy.  
Not only will a MAP Enhancer ‘correct’ for manifold air pressure loss if using a fuel saver like the HyCO 2A, it will help the computer correct ignition advance for fuel savers like the HyZor (BG or HHO addition).

I had read somewhere that a simple potentiometer  needed to be place on the MAP sensor. I cannot find that document for all my trying and cannot remember where I saw it.  My MAP sensor has 3 wires.  One ground,  one 5watt power and one that adjusts voltage based on vacuum.   Which wire do I attach the potentiometer to?

 
It’ll be 5 Volt power (not 5 watt).  That’s the Power Supply voltage.  The ground is ground.  The signal wire (varies voltage) is where you want to apply the potentiometer (usually about 15K ohms).  You put the pot. in SERIES into the signal wire.  
 
The MAP sensor is a variable resistor that REDUCES the voltage signal going to the ECU (via the signal wire) by increasing resistance as the vacuum increases (lower absolute pressure).  Here’s an example chart:
http://injector-rehab.com/shop/mapsensor.html
Lower pressure (supposedly) means there is less air (and or lower engine demand for fuel) so the ECU cuts back on fuel (and retards the ignition timing) to compensate.
What this means to you is that you can ‘fool’ your ECU into reducing fuel by ‘modifying’ the voltage signal going to the ECU.
More resistance (in series) lowers the voltage, which lowers the fuel consumption.
So I recommend wiring your potentiometer so that clockwise LOWERS resistance (more fuel) and counter-clockwise INCREASES resistance (less fuel).
 
You can buy assembled MAP Enhancers on eBay for cheaper than you can buy the parts, unless you already have them laying about.

 
 

 
I haven’t seen anything (at Eagle-Research) about a MAP Sensor Enhancer.
I do not currently sell a MAP Enhancer because they are being sold on eBay for less than I can build them.  Usually they are just a 15K variable resistor (for variable voltage MAP sensors).
I have a 1989 Ford F-150 4 X 4 with a 302 cu. in. engine. The MAP sensor on a Ford does not send a voltage signal back to the computer but a Digital Frequency Signal. You cannot measure a voltage drop on the signal wire. You can only measure a frequency change.
That’s correct.
The Frequency varies from 100 Hz to 156 Hz at my elevation. I guess it is up to 159 Hz at Sea Level. The way it works is, as the vacuum increases the frequency drops. It varies based upon how many inches of vacuum in the intake manifold. That frequency signal from the MAP Sensor is also calculated and factored in by the computer to regulate how much fuel it pumps through the fuel injectors.
That’s correct.
The truck only has one (1) Oxygen Sensor and I have purchased the kit here for that.
Thank you 🙂
Do I need the MAP Sensor Enhancer in addition to the EFIE?
Yes.
This other place is saying i need both and they have a special one for the Fords that have a digital frequency signal but I don’t think they are adjustable.Their info says they are “set and forget” as it was stated on their site. That doesn’t seem like the optimum solution to me.
It’s not.  It should be adjustable so that you can balance gains and performance for your vehicle and application.
If I do NEED the MAP Sensor Enhancer is there a way I can send my own digital frequency signal down that line to the computer and bypass the sensor completely?
Yes you can, but it wouldn’t be wise.  You’d lose the whole reason the MAP sensor exists, which is to optimize air:fuel ratio and ignition timing ‘on the fly’ and automatically.  Best to use a ‘correction’ circuit.
Could I just use a low, VERY LOW frequency generator? That way I could dial in different frequency settings for different driving conditions and circumstances. Does anyone have an idea about how to make this work or if it would work?
It would even help if I could just somehow put a circuit in-line that would raise the frequency by 10 to 15 Hz or more if possible. Any ideas?
Actually you want to LOWER the frequency because you want the CPU to ‘see’ a higher vacuum (less pressure) and yes, I have designed such a circuit.  You put a 15K resistor in the power line (positive feed) leading up to the (frequency based) MAP sensor.  This lowers the voltage that the sensor is getting and slows down the output frequency.  But this solution also lowers the MAP sensor output signal voltage which MAY, in some cases, cause the CPU to think that the MAP sensor is bad. 
So you add a ‘voltage pullup’ P-channel MosFet to the circuit, wired thus:1. MosFet Source is connected to the positive wire going to the MAP Enhancer BEFORE the above resistor.2. Signal the MosFet gate with the MAP sensor output signal. 3. MosFet Drain then goes to the CPU (in place of the original MAP Sensor signal).I like this particular MosFet for this application.http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=IRFD9014YEAH! problem solved, you now have a simple low cost solution for frequency based MAP sensors.  

We do ship to everywhere in the world.
I’m so sorry to hear that several countries have heavy import taxation.
(Some even tax the shipping cost)
 
I (George Wiseman) have issues with declaring a lesser than true ‘customs’ value on any package.
 
1. My international shipping reputation.  I already get heavily scrutinized by Vested Interest (that control various government agencies) that would just LOVE a reason to shut me down.  
 
I operate my business 100% truthfully and ethically not only because it’s the right thing to do morally, but because I’m unwilling to pay the ‘price’ of getting caught doing anything that could be construed as fraudulent. 
 
2. Shipping Insurance. Packages do occasionally get lost, stolen, damaged, etc.  I can only insure the packages for the value I claim.
 
3. Accounting.  It becomes a nightmare when columns don’t add up because values differ.  Such issues cause my bookkeeper extra time which costs me money (her time) and my time (as she goes over discrepancies).  
 
I like to keep things simple so I can get on with the research that creates these world-class solutions.  Truth is simple.
 

That question is answered in many places on the internet.  Mayo Clinic advise.
HOWEVER, lots of people don’t realize the true importance (to their health) of drinking
A. enough water everyday,
B. what kind of water to drink and
C. when to drink it.

A. How much water is ENOUGH?

Your weight: The first step to knowing the minimum water to drink everyday is to know your weight. A 200 pound man and 100 pound woman require different amounts of water every day.
Multiply by 2/3: Next you want to multiple your weight by 2/3 (or 67%) to determine the minimum of water to drink daily. For example, if you weighed 175 pounds you would multiple that by 2/3 and learn you should be drinking about 117 ounces of water every day. There are 32 ounces in a quart, so drink about 3.6 quarts a day… Betcha aren’t 🙂
Activity Level: Finally you will want to adjust that number based on how often you work out, since you are expelling water when you sweat and breathe. Your body also needs more water to expel the metabolic toxins.  You should add 12 ounces of water to your daily total for every 30 minutes that you work out. So if you work out for 45 minutes daily, you would add 18 ounces of water to your daily intake.

B. What KIND of water should you drink?
What most water ‘experts’ don’t tell you is that MOST of the water people actually drink is DEHYDRATING!  I’m not even talking about the pseudo-hydration people drink (coffee, soft-drinks, sports drinks, etc.) I’m talking about straight water.
Please watch this 1.5 hour video “Your Brain on Water” to see Dr. Corinne Allen speak on hydration.  Note that she is convinced that Kangen water is the best, because she doesn’t yet know about HydrOxy water.  But she is CORRECT on all her other facts.
You want your water to be CLEAN.  MOST impurities in water cause problems in the body. Most minerals in water are NOT bio-available (you get bio-available minerals from plants)! Tap water also contains hormones, toxins, pharmaceuticals, etc.  Read more here.
You want your water to be high pH (potential of hydrogen), but ONLY because it is PURE water that contains extra HYDROGEN.  It’s the HYDROGEN that makes the water to be a superior anti-oxidant (better than vitamin C).  Many technologies CHEAT by adding minerals to increase pH and fraudulently advertise this as ‘healthy’ alkaline.  Kangan machines (and many other technologies) can add hydrogen to water; but which is the healthiest?
You want your water to be LOW oxygen reduction potential (ORP).This is VITAL… This is what actually causes water to be HYDRATING!
It’s pretty simple, yet medical science has MISSED IT for hundreds of years.
ORP is measured with a milliamp meter.  For amps to ‘flow’ you need a difference in electrical potential; which literally means one area has more ELECTRONS than another area.  Electrons have a NEGATIVE charge.
If the water is electron deficient, it will TAKE electrons from your body (dehydrating).  If the water is electron rich, it will GIVE electrons to your body (hydrating).
The ORP meter is ‘neutral’ so if there is a deficiency of electrons, the reading will be positive (most tap water will be positive >400 mA).  If there is an EXCESS of electrons, the reading will be negative (BG or HydrOxy bubbled water will read – 250 mA or less).
Bubbling BG through water makes water electron rich because of the Electrically Expanded Water (ExW) component of BG.  ExW is water that has ‘soaked up’ electricity like a sponge soaks up water, turning into a gaseous form of water that is not water vapor or steam.  ExW will not condense if cooled like water vapor will.  ExW is water’s fourth state of matter, a plasma (ionized gas).
ExW contains bio-available ENERGY that the body can directly use to heal itself, activate stem cells, kill pathogens, etc.  Which is why breathing the BG (in addition to drinking BG bubbled water) is so effective.
C. WHEN you drink your water is important to optimal health.   Every-body is different so you’ll need to modify these suggestions to fit what works for you.
1. Drink at least a quart (liter) of BG bubbled water immediately upon waking up in the morning.
2. Set up bottles and routine to drink your daily water throughout the day.
3. If you feel hungry, DRINK BG bubbled water first; as much as a quart.  If the hunger persists, THEN have a light meal or snack.  MOST people confuse thirst for hunger.
Your body is composed of 62% hydrogen.  It needs hydrogen for EVERYTHING. Hydrogen is your most important nutrient.  Water is the low calorie, low carbohydrate way the body can get hydrogen.  When you eat ‘food’ you also get hydrogen as the bacteria in your colin break the ‘hydrocarbon’ food apart into hydrogen and carbon; but food also adds calories and carbs.
4. DO drink a quart (liter) of BG bubbled water before a meal, then wait 20 to 30 minutes before eating.  This lowers the NEED for excess food to get your hydrogen, helps the body increase it’s metabolic rate, provides water for acid formation to help digest food, increases the density of the blood to help nutrition reach the cells, etc.
5. Sip BG bubbled water constantly during exercise.  You would be amazed at how much water the body needs to work efficiently.

Hydrogen gas (the part of BG that is combustible) needs to be at least 4% in air by volume before it is combustible.  
Hydrogen rises VERY fast and diffuses in air VERY fast, so even a minimal ventilation would prevent a combustible mixture from forming in the room.  
Let’s do some math.  A 3 meter cube (a small room) contains 27,000 liters of space.  4% of 27,000 is 1,080 liters.
Assuming your electrolyzer makes 50 liters of hydrogen per hour, there would be (at least) 20 hours of continous use before a combustible mixture could form.
BUT: Hydrogen is a very tiny molecule and can fit through the smallest of cracks (it even travels through metals).  So it is almost impossible to contain in a room that has ANY ventilation.  Just opening a door once in awhile will ventilate a room enough to prevent a combustible mixture.
And this doesn’t take into account if a person is breathing the BG, so some of the hydrogen is being ‘consumed’ by the breather(s); just like oxygen is a room is consumed by breather(s).  
So, for practicality, just assume that if the room is ventilated well enough so that the breather(s) have enough fresh oxygen to breathe, that there can NEVER be a combustible mixture in the room (from an electrolyzer producing such small quantities of hydrogen). 
 
 

Q&D way to test for water purity:
Get your ohm meter and get a container of distilled water.Set up two (or more) glass or plastic (glass preferred) trays for your testing waters.
At room temperature and right away (to prevent carbon dioxide, from the air, contaminating the water) pour your distilled water into one of the trays. 
Find the distance you need to hold your probes apart to get a reading of 500,000 ohms.  Do the same test in whatever water you choose, to see if the water is (or even close) to 500,000 ohms (or better is preferred).Some helpful links:http://www.aquaread.com/need-help/what-are-you-measuring/resistivity/http://www.labmanager.com/white-papers-and-application-notes/2010/05/resistivity-conductivity-measurement-of-purified-water#.Wdt3_EyZNE4https://sciencing.com/measure-conductivity-water-multimeter-8523350.htmlhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORxy-m3vcxc