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Aquacure FAQ

General FAQ

I apologize, and maybe I don’t understand well the instuction of machine, the LYE I have to put inside just one time and after never more? And for clean it, one time every year?

Yes, lye one time, unless it gets out of the machine somehow (like you pour it out).  Once the lye is in the machine, you only add pure water to top up.

When I clean (at least once a year but once a month would be better) I pour out the lye solution into a plastic bucket, rinse the machine several times with warm water and then filter the lye solution through a coffee filter and then pour the lye solution back into the machine.

Once a year or so, you can add an ounce of lye to the solution before you pour it back into the machine.  I usually add an equal amount of citric acid to assist the lye.

My plan is to ship it to where I will be staying. Is it ok to ship with water in it or must I drain It?

You absolutely must drain it AND put the vinyl plug on the filter output because there’s no way to completely drain it.  Lye leaking out of the machine will damage the machine, packaging and maybe even shipping services equipment (which they do not appreciate).

Never transport any electrolyzer with electrolyte in it unless you can be CERTAIN the machine will not tip over or be turned upside down.

If I have to drain I assume I would need to buy more lye correct? 

Correct, enough to fill a 1 ounce bottle will do the job.  

Unless you have an early version of the 220 VAC version AquaCure, then you need 4 ounces of lye (that was only for about 20 machines, then we changed the 220 VAC power supply to one that did not require 4 ounces of lye to get the gas production up to accepatble level).

I saw the faq on how much water to drink.  Is that if you’re only drinking water? Another words, if I am breathing a couple of hours a day so I still need to drink 140oz?

1/2 your body weight pounds in ounces of water.  Yes, you need to drink the same amount of water even if you are breathing the BG.  The combination helps the body heal and rejuvinate better than either protocol alone.  

Note:  When you are breathing the BG, you may not ‘feel’ thirsty (I don’t), but you MUST drink anyway.  Sipping is OK, but I prefer to jug a quart (liter) when I wake up, then a quart (liter) 1/2 hour before any meal or whenever I feel hungry.
NOTE: Most times when people feel hungry they are ACTUALLY thirsty… And your body NEEDS the moisture to properly digest your food.  If you are worried about the water diluting the stomach acid, then drink it 20 minutes BEFORE you eat.

I suspect that if a person is using the machine for breathing for extended periods
then the lye mixture is going to get used up. Where is the best place to source lye?

The lye should last for years. 

Mainly I just pour out the electrolyte into a bucket, rinse out the AquaCure a few times, then pour the (coffee filtered) lye mixture back into the machine.  You are just trying to get rid of the (naturally occuring) sludge that accumulates in the electrolyzer.  The lye is a catalyst and does not get ‘used up’ in the electrolytic (water splitting) process.

 It’s OK to add an ounce a year if you like, but I definitely reuse my old lye (it gets better with age).

To answer your second question, I buy lye in bulk from my local hardware store and you can buy lye online (lots of sources).  Be sure to get 99%+ pure.

We currently filter all our drinking water through an Aquarain filter. 
Would that water be an acceptable source of water for making HydrOxy 
drinking water? (as opposed to distilled water).

do not recommend drinking anything but PURE water, bubbled with BG.  You can (of course) drink anything you feel is healthy but here is my opinion (which I’ve now done since 2005).  In my opinion there are FEW things you can add to water to make it ‘healthier’, most minerals / vitamins / nutrients should come from bio-available sources like plants.

We did all start setup correct turned it on and low liquid level light came on plus alarm, and sight gauge has no blue light showing. I had chosen a timer setting, so I turned it off, am stuck there, so any advice, please? 

The machines have been updated since the video.   If the one you have has a translucent sight tube, there is no blue light (see below).  It’s easier to see the liquid level without the light. Also, the ‘initial fill’ instructions bring the liquid level up to ‘just’ the low level, so sometimes the low level alarm will come on with ‘just’ the initial fill liquid poured in.   Check the liquid level to see where it is, I suspect it’s low.  Put in distilled water (slowly) until it’s about 3/4 full and everything should work just fine. If the liquid level is well above the ‘low level’ mark, and the red low level light/alarm still goes off, DO get in touch with me.  I can’t undo my filter 

First, I’m sorry your filter is screwed on too tight for you… But it isn’t ‘broken’ and if you get another (or this one ‘repaired’ it’s likely to be exactly the same tightness, because if we ship them ‘loose’ they will come apart in the shipping and spill lye (damaging the AquaCure).

Every machine is 100% run tested before being drained and packaged, so we KNOW it will operate correctly… But it also means there is some residue lye in the machine that needs to be ‘sealed’ (no leaks) as the machine is shipped.

So let’s just get yours unscrewed and you can then re-screw it to a tightness that works for you.
I’m hoping you are trying to unscrew the right piece… The filter tank on the bottom, not the pressure release fitting on the top…

If looking down on it, it unscrews clockwise.   Hold the top piece with one hand (to prevent bending the metal on the front of the machine), while turning the bottom clockwise.

Maybe find a friend with a strong grip or use a ‘band’ type wrench like this one

Once it is loose, you should have no further trouble.  You can put some grease on the threads if you wish. 

As for the sediment and debris in the machine.  That is normal.  You clean it out occasionally (I recommend once a year but in some cases, once a month might be appropriate).

Changes to AquaCure not yet upgraded in the Operation Manual or Video

Don’t worry about the cut off end of the oxygen humidifier adaptor hose.  That is by design.

 We realized that if we cut off that end, we could attach the oxygen humidifier adaptor hose directly to the filter (like attaching the torch hose) using the existing barb and compression nut, eliminating the short peice of stiff plastic pipe shown in the (original) video.  That cut off hose is an ‘upgrade’ :)))

We now have 3 different sight tube ‘lighting’ situations:

1. Originally we used a transparent sight tube and it was difficult to see the liquid level so we added a blue LED to the bottom.  The blue light isn’t supposed to show blue all the way up.  The LED is supposed to put light in the tube (at the bottom) so that the liquid in the tube will act as a ‘light tube’, showing the ‘shiny’ top (the meniscus, where the water level ‘actually’ is), otherwise it’s hard to see what the true liquid level is.  Don’t pay attention to the blue light at the bottom, look for the liquid level ‘line’.

However, some people conldn’t see the meniscus and were assuming the blue light in the bottom was the liquid level… So,

2. We transitioned (in some units) to a ‘translucent’ sight tube, which show the liquid level by a change in ‘translucency’ and the blue light became redundant (it was actually easier to see the liquid level without the light), So,

3. We eliminated the blue light in the later ‘translucent’ versions… But then people were still complaining because they LIKED the blue light, and it does help see the liquid level in low light conditions… So,

4. We’ve gone back to the clear tubind and replaced the blue LED and ADDED a little white floating ball so it’s a lot easier to see the liquid level.
Note that the ball can sometimes get ‘stuck’ up high when the machine is drained (turned upside down).  It will eventually drop down on it’s own, but a few taps on the hose will cause it to drop quicker.

Lye Notes:

We use 1 ounce (about 30 grams) of lye in a quart (liter) of water for the 110-120 VACAquaCures.  This makes a fairly benign (lightly caustic) electrolyte mixture that can be further mitigated by adding (an optional) ounce of citric acid.  The citric acid also helps keep the electrode plates clean longer, helping with efficiency.

We use 4-6 ounces (120 – 180 grams) of lye in a quart (liter) of water for the EARLY VERSION 220-240 VAC AquaCures.  The extra lye is needed in this version to get the amperage up high enough to make the required volume of HydrOxy.  The later versons use a different power supply and require only one ounce of lye.

Lye causes chemical burns (eventually).  Lye (NaOH) is not nearly as caustic as potassium hydroxide (KOH) but you should keep it off your skin and definitely out of mucus membranes!
If lye gets on skin (or anything you don’t want it on) wash it with clean water until ‘slippery’ feeling is gone.

220-240 VAC Timer Switch:

In North America I couldn’t (yet) find an electronic switch (like the 110-120 version uses) so I’m using a mechanical timer switch (and changing out the inner power supply) to make the AquaCure compatible with 220-240 VAC.

When turning on the AquaCure using the mechanical switch, turn it past 10 minutes to turn it on.  NEVER ‘force’ turn it off by turning the timer backwards.  If you need to turn off the AquaCure ‘early’ (before the timer is finished) turn it off using the main power switch.

Unfortunately, the original mechanical timer switch didn’t have the ‘continous’ function.  In later versions we changed the main power switch to allow a ‘continous’ function and THEN we found a version of mechanical switch that had a ‘continous’ function.  So now the 220 VAC machines can be ‘continous’ if you turn the dial one click counter-clockwise.

We recognize that the ability to bypass the timer is a valuable feature.  If you wish to retro-fit your AquaCure with this switch, you can find it in places like this.  Also check out Amazon and eBay.


warn about the explosive nature of the gas and that it can be ignited with static electricity.

Since 2007 to now (2017) when I started selling ER50s and now the AquaCure, we’ve had 3 explosions (all ignited by static electricity).  In all three cases, no one was hurt, but it’s surpirsing and startling.

I frankly don’t remember much about the first one.  I think it was a woman using BG in a bag on her arm.  Other than the bag popping like a balloon, there was no other issue.

The second one I remember because it had an additional drama.  A man with a BG bagged arm got up to let his dog out.  He walked across carpeting and when he touched the doorknob, the spark exploded the bag.  They were startled, but not hurt.  The dog pooped on the floor.

The third one was kinda weird.  Evidently a woman (who is prone to generating static electricity anyway) was rubbing her hand on her husband when he was breathing BG.  She then touched the humidifier and the spark (OUTSIDE THE JAR) caused the BG inside to explode (I’m not sure how… a leak? a capacitance effect?) in any case, the humidifier bottle and the lid for the bubbler both shattered. The man and woman were both OK, again just startled.

This is EXACTLY why I design the machines as I do.
I try to imagine every possibility of explosion and design to prevent it.
Then I ALSO design to mitigate harm if the possibility happens anyway.

Taking anti-static precautions is a good idea.
Wearing anti-static clothing, keeping a high humidity in the room, grounding everything to everything (static electricity will only create a spark when a potential difference exists).

Static sparks need a very specific set of conditions that can easily be prevented.

It’s been suggested to make the bubbler fuller to reduce the gas volume.

Bubbler fuller will mean less gas to explode but it also will tend to splash more water up the hose on an ongoing basis (very annoying).  
Besides, it isn’t the volume of the gas that is the issue, it’s the sharpness of the explosion that tears things apart.  A plastic bottle FULL of BG will stand the explosion, if the pressure is low enough… 

Note:  The explosive pressure spike rises logarithmically as the gas pressure rises, which is the MAIN REASON I’ve reduced the operating pressure of the AquaCure from it’s originally (VING) designed 15-20 psi to 2 psi.  
Everything about this machine is designed for safety, which I’ve learned by experimentation, experience and having people use thousands of my electrolyzers (customer feedback) since 1986.

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